October 21, 2001. Here I am wetting such a car. Shipping worldwide The prototype cars did not seem to show dirt too badly, though as this photo from the late 1950s shows, eventually they got dingy. bottle with eyedropper. That’s because accumulations often result in a little ring of pigment when it dries, if not corrected. The *most* basic weathering can be done with only two paints. Another car type that presents its own problems is the covered hopper. Last, I like to allow all water to dry, even in crevices , behind ladders, or in other places water can hide, before adding the final Dullcote layer. You can see I am just mopping on the water, not delicately dabbing. Model Air is presented in a 17 ml. At bottom in this photo is one of my cardboard palettes. In a prior post about modeling a tank car (that post is available at the following link: A more challenging task in many cases is lightly weathering a tank car, especially with a light-colored model. In this section I take up open-top cars such as gondolas and hoppers. These four cases are not extensive, but I think they illustrate the general results of my weathering method. This photo shows me blowing through the grab irons on that same car seen above. Another common location was near the bolster at the bottom of the car side on wood-sheathed cars. But though it may look like little has been done, here is that same car at right, alongside an unweathered box car from the same source. I usually choose a more blackish mix for cars of eastern railroads, where coal soot was more prevalent, a little browner shade for cars of western railroads. T... Back in 2002, I published a short article in the Southern Pacific Historical and Technical Society magazine, Trainline (issue 71, Spring 20... http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/11/chalk-marks-and-route-cards.html, http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2014/04/associated-oil-tank-cars-modeling.html, http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/05/weathering-flat-car-decks.html, http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/03/modeling-pfe-reefers-in-1953-2.html, http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/10/weathering-clinic-handout.html, http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/03/reweigh-article-from-rmc.html, http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2014/04/brake-service-rules-part-2.html, Weathering with acrylic washes: basic technique. is to apply the basic paint scheme first. Next I set up the models to be worked on. One point to keep in mind is that single-sheathed cars require more work, both to get wet everywhere and also to distribute pigment evenly, because every panel between posts and diagonals has to be treated as a kind of independent region. Due to a number of email messages that I've received asking questions about the application of washes on models, I decided to jot down my thoughts on this topic and drop them into an article. In the photo below, I am adding those, again with a little straight Umber or black. In this photo, I have used some pure black to dash on a little such color on the lower part of the ladder (pure Burnt Umber works well too). Weathering Effects. We will never be able to replicate all those years of intense exposure to the elements, we can only simulate it through the use of different tools and techniques to artificially make the model look aged. In regular service, coal can be abrasive to paint and rust alike, and probably the car interior would not have looked quite like this. Notice also that the entire tank is streaked vertically, as rain has washed dirt downward. Since the creation of this talk and its handout, I have been thinking about the description problem off and on, and am going to try and present in words, with a few photos, what my method is, and a few cautions and recommendations during the process. Acrylic model paints for model painting. The brush can be sloshed in the cup of clean water to reduce pigment load, stroked (on the newspaper you put down under the project) to remove excess water, and then can be used to “wick” water and pigment from the bottom of the car side, and, if desired, stroked upward to maintain a heavier dirt load, or else washed out in the cup to get that much pigment off the car, and reduce the dirt load. Here I show a refrigerator car roof being wetted. I have continued to work on variations in weathering on light reefer paint schemes. Modeling freight traffic, Coast Line, Part 14, Freight car graffiti, Part 17: 60-foot box cars, Pennsy freight cars, Part 6: modeling the wagon-tops, Open-car loads: lumber from Owl Mountain Models, Modeling open ice hatches on refrigerator cars. Note here the palette in the foreground, a small dish of wet water at right, and at left, a coffee cup with clean water in it. I usually just cut a square of corrugated cardboard for a palette, for example from a box flap of a cardboard carton. You can click to enlarge. Acrylic model paints for AFV, aircrafts, figues, civil, naval... different colours of acrylic model paints There are many other ways to achieve the chipped paint effect, like priming the model with a metal color, and then paint the model with the final color. Again, the process is to apply wet water generously, now to sides and ends of the car. What is happening is that suddenly you are no longer working with a. For smaller models (1/72), patches of light grey may look more correct. But do this fairly promptly. The rest of the basic method is about the same. These marks were made by clerks or switchmen, and certainly were not graffiti, but were intended to provide information to switching or train crews. Although we could not think of a way to make a very meaningful handout for this talk, we did create a summary, including a few basic facts about the materials we used. At this point, I carefully check every place there may be extra water accumulated. The weathering and rust in the image below is based on a photo of one of the cars I saw there. One other point. This may be at door latches or hinges (on refrigerator cars), or at the attachments of grab irons. You can see in this photo that the pigment tends to puddle together rather than spread uniformly. Three things to note in this view: first, the pigment is collecting at the bottom of the sides, just from gravity as the wet material flows downward; second, the trucks have a generous dose of pigment too; and third, a small dry area is already evident at the very top of the sides. I happened to travel Tuesday to the California State Railroad Museum in Sacramento to do some research on a couple of topics. Water will simply bead up and not spread, on any glossy area, which in turn would mean that the weathering will be pretty unsatisfactory (try it on something discardable as a test). So even though the car on the right is 16 years older than the car on the left, its paint scheme is actually newer, and thus a little less dirty, than is the auto car at left. As you will find if you experiment, getting a uniform acrylic weathering coat over a light color takes some care. This is quite rough on brushes, so don’t use your best for this – it tends to work better with old brushes. Richard Hendrickson died from a heart attack on June 28. The route card board on the car door has already received a small paper square as a route card. The one by M.R. Here, I’ll show you how to weather and age using only three paints. Here you see the two cars for which I did roofs only in the session shown in the first post of this series, at right, and then at left, the two cars for which I did the car sides and ends in the second post (roofs had been done earlier). Over time, an hour or two, say, the acrylic seems to take much more of a set, and becomes pretty resistant to water. Finally, I will show the three models I have built of SP’s famous black Overnight box cars. That in turn sets the time scale on which you can work the wash around on the car.I would advise experimenting to learn what rate you have to work at, on a particular day. This is an SP car, whose paint scheme shows it is in company fuel service. The weathering looks uneven in the bright light used for the photo, but under layout lighting this effect is not visible. I received an interesting challenge in an email a few months ago, and the idea has been rattling around in the back of my mind ever since. Meanwhile, the same process as described in Part 2, the stroking upward of any water + pigment accumulated at the bottom of the car side, continues with a single-sheathed car as it would for any other car. First and forem… Next I splodge on some pigment, just dabs here and there on the roof. One conventional hopper I do have is an old Ulrich metal kit, which has separate ladders and wire grabs. Some readers of this page will have seen the November 2014 issue of Model Railroader magazine, with several articles on weathering. Some readers of this page will have seen the November 2014 issue of. There are premium paints and there are inexpensive ones, and for weathering I certainly advise the lower priced brands. Cars did get repainted, and some car owners, notably PFE, did wash cars whenever their grime was getting excessive, on average about every four to five years. The draining downward of pigment, evident on any more or less vertical surface, was described and illustrated in talking about car sides, and here it is even more prominent. (They most certainly did, Another example of how effectively stock cars can be faded and weathered is shown in this photo of a Santa Fe class S. The use of pencils, as shown in these few examples, is just one of the ways to make weathering more detailed and more effective, particularly if it is kept subtle. Before discussing that, I should note that where I live, winters have damper and cooler air, summers warmer and drier. One way to do show all these lettering modifications on a model is just to brush-paint an irregular patch over the NEW or weight date, and prototype photos certainly support such an appearance, or you can make a careful rectangle, most easily with decal sheet of boxcar red, black, orange, or whatever car color you have. Another point: the low surface tension of the wet water will hold the water + pigment mixture as a continuous film or web from grab irons and ladder rungs to the car side, and that web will dry that way (not good). I begin with tube acrylic paints, available at any art store. Another example of moderate weathering is the car on the left in this next image, a model of one of the 100 box cars the NWP obtained from the USRA. For nearly all freight cars, the level of dirt seen on a particular car would scale with the time in service since it was last painted. Note I am making sure the pigment is evenly distributed on the trucks. As I mentioned in Part 1 in describing the roof weathering, dry areas require caution — if you continue the process you are using on the wet areas, into a dry area, you will immediately find different behavior of the pigment. Weathering Effects About Us Scale model shop started in 2010, with an aim to offer fellow modellers good customer service and competitive prices on their hobby products. This concludes my summary description of the methods, both basic and detailed, that I use to weather rolling stock with acrylic washes. On the right is a Class B-50-15 box car, built back in 1925 but with a post-1946 paint scheme. I just apply the wet water liberally over the area to be done. So I am far from done at this point. Again, I tried to capture the downward streaking on the tank, as well as dirtying up the “glossy new” look of the ready-to-run model. Cockpit Weathering Sets; The Weathering Magazine Publications. For more about route cards, you might wish to read my discussion of the use and application of them at: A detail seen in a number of prototype photos is a strip of rust alongside the tank hold-down bands. These cars were wood-sheathed to save scarce sheet steel in the early part of World War II. When I moved to Pittsburgh in 1977, the Montour was shutting down and a lot of equipment was on the scrap line. This occurs because the tank is anchored to the underframe only at the car center, and thus expands and contracts with changing temperature by sliding longitudinally on the underframe. Here is an example of interior rust and dirt added to a steel SP GS gondola. The innovative range of Weathering Effects offers the modeler a new medium for depicting the effects of exposure to weather and extreme climates on vehicles and armor. I will pause in the description. Richard Hendrickson died from a heart attack on June 28. Some other brands do. 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